Friday 28 November 2014

Black Friday Deals

Today is the American retail phenomenon that is Black Friday. Originally it was created to kick start the festive shopping season with great deals and offers at a time that would otherwise fall slightly stale in the retail world. Every year it seems to become more and more prominent over here in Britain and this year it seems as though there is no avoiding it. So if you can't beat them, pick up some great wine bargains!.. No reviews here (I'm sure they will follow), but I've just spent a few hours trawling the various online Black Friday wine deals to see what I can find. I'd heard big things about a Black Friday wine sale on Amazon, but when looking through the wines they seemed overpriced to begin with for the most part and didn't receive very good reviews. Here are my pick of the best:

Majestic:
Majestic are offering 33% off if you buy two bottles or more - bearing in mind that they usually offer 25% and there are often deals of 33% or higher, this isn't as epic as it sounds. To add to my disappointment, their focus this Black Friday is Sauvignon Blanc, which you may have guessed I'm not a huge fan of. On the plus side, their red offering is Rioja! It was no great surprise that the majority of wines on offer were from the 'lesser' vingtages of recent years - 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2011. What I was really looking for was a nice, fruity, bold 2010 and if I was really lucky, a 2004/2005 Gran Reserva - well I never...

Stephen Tanzer (93), Wine Spectator (91), World Decanter Bronze

Rioja Reserva Vina Ardanza 2005 - £15.99 - save £8.01
Stephen Tanzer (92), Wine Spectator (92)

Bodegas Vina Eguia Gran Reserva 2004 - £8.99 - save £4.50
International Wine Challenge Silver

Despite what I said about Sauvignon earlier, I also couldn't resist giving these two a go:

Bob Campbell (94), Wine Spectator (92), Wine Enthusiast (92)

A Sticky End Noble Sauvignon Blanc 2012 - £10.65 - save £5.34 (37.5cl)


Ocado:
Some of these deals were a bit high-end, but the savings were staggering. Don't forget that you also get £20 off your first shop with Ocado (if you spend over £80). 

James Halliday (95), Jancis Robinson (16)

Tattinger Comtes de Champagne 2000 - £79.99 - save £50.00
Wine Spectator (94), Robert Parker (96), Jancis Robinson (18)

Krug Vintage 2000 - £150.00 - save £75.00
Stephen Tanzer (95), Wine Spectator (95), Jancis Robinson (19)

Dom Perignon Rose Champagne 2000 - £175.00 - save £100.00
Robert Parker (96), Wine Enthusiast (94), Jancis Robinson (18)


Asda:
Back down to Earth. That's right, Asda - they've been making waves with their Extra Special range and a couple of them are included in the 6 for £25 offer this weekend. One of my favourite "everyday" Riojas was also included for less than half price. I'll be taking three of each of these beauties. Result!


International Wine Challenge Bronze, Decanter Bronze


There are of course lots more of the "usual" great deals to be had this Black Friday weekend, let me know if you find any more worth mentioning!

Tuesday 25 November 2014

Wine Lists

It's an exciting week at The Wingerworth - we're launching our new Wine List! It's hard to imagine that we began trading over a year ago now, but that we have. Before opening we went through no less than nine revisions of a list with our wine supplier Peter Bamford of Modern French Wine, with the process including a mega tasting evening to sample the key lines. Erring on the side of caution, our list was initially focused on the mid-range, ticking all of the "expected" boxes - we are a pub after all! Very soon, much to our delight we realised that we had the potential to not only sell premium wines, but also "quirky" or interesting wines too. Through the year we have added, amongst others; a Marlborough Riesling (£24.95), an Alsace Pinot Gris (£26.50), a 2009 St Estephe (£44.95) and a 2002 Cote Rotie (£60.00), as well as taking a bit of a gamble on an English Wine section in the Spring. The thinking behind adding English wine was simply that we focus on British products on a British food menu in a British pub, so why not try the same with wine. The results have been as remarkable as the wines themselves - people seem to love trying something they haven't tried before and of course, something that is locally produced. Recently we popped over to an Italian wine tasting at The Market Pub, whose owners are also very into wine and boast a list that includes a "private collection" with some serious, serious names on it. We were sat with a lovely couple and made a point not to initially disclose we were from The Wingerworth, just to see what peoples' opinion of us was on the wine scene. Much to my delight they said that we had one of the most interesting and approachable wine lists they had ever seen! I have to say that the quality of the product helps, but our most valuable of resource is our staff. They work exceptionally hard to learn the products that we sell and genuinely seem to enjoy relaying that knowledge and passion to our customers. It was also this visit to The Market tasting that spurred us on to adding higher-end wines to the list. Admittedly we don't have a private collection that makes the eyes pop out of the sockets and we are nowhere near to listing a 1996 Penfolds Grange for £175, a 1998 Latour for £275 or a 1996 Petrus for £1000. A quick online search will tell you that you will be pushed to find these sorts of prices at cost. It's just staggering, mind-boggling value. In a "cash only" pub one has to assume that these additions are simply for show? In fact, we joked about buying them from The Market and selling them for a small cash margin at The Wingerworth... Nevertheless, with our latest revision of the list I believe that we are taking the right steps to build a reputation that balances exceptional quality at every level - with big names and unknown gems alike.

Indeed, a year on our wine sales are way ahead of target and I think that is simply down to the passion at every level of our business; from Peter the supplier, to myself and of course most importantly all of our lovely staff headed up by our "wine guy" Simon. Simon does prefer the the name "wine guy" to sommelier, or anything else that is too formal and I believe that it's that laid back, approachable attitude that puts our customers and the rest of our staff in such a comfortable place when approaching our list. Too many restaurants have a really scary-looking list, with an even more austere and unapproachable wine expert to recommend and serve. Simon is the antithesis to our stereotypical sommelier - sleeves rolled up, pen behind ear and under no circumstance will he wear a tie... He doesn't need to hide behind false flamboyancy because he simply has great knowledge and a deep passion and love for what he does. That's not to say in any way that we don't sell a serious product, because we really do.

Apologies to the traditionalists out there, but Simon and I are both big fans of the New World, particularly California, Australia and New Zealand. In fact so much so, that Simon will take any excuse to regale the story of The Judgement of Paris to anyone who will listen. In short, this was a 1976 wine competition where Californian producers wiped the floor with established producers from Burgundy and Bordeaux such as Mouton-Rothschild, Montrose and Haut-Brion. Although we are now adding a Fine Wines section to the list in our revamp, we are actually a little more excited about the New World additions! We thought that after a year, the list should begin to reflect our own personalities and tastes a little more. I just hope that everyone enjoys them as much as we do!

old vine zinfandel
ravenswood, lodi, california, 2011+      
zinfandel, the heritage grape of california, is the big success story of ravenswood winery. theirs is a big, powerful, luscious wine, with ripe red fruits and a lovely richness.
4.30 / 5.80 / 21.50 pounds

riesling
chateau ste michelle, washington state, usa, 2011+
the columbia valley sits east of seattle, and produces some fantastic wine, which are slowly but surely gaining great respect and a cult following. this riesling is packed with fresh green apples, ripe lemons and a trace of honey.
24.95 pounds

shiraz-mataro
“naked on rollerskates”, some young punks, Australia, 2011+
some young punks are fronted by winemaker col mcbride, and are really paving the way at the moment in unique, quality driven australian wines that are gaining recognition the world over. this french-style blend is smooth, rich and powerful.
27.95 pounds

chardonnay
byron, santa barbara, california, usa, 2011+
santa barbara produces some of the best californian chardonnay, and byron produces some of the best chardonnay in santa barbara. this is a wine with great richness; packed with apples, smoke, vanilla and honey, followed by a silky smooth finish.
31.50 pounds



zinfandel
east bench, ridge vineyards, california, 2012
ridge vineyards are one of the best producers in california, known worldwide for making fantastic wines. head winemaker paul draper has won numerous awards for his wines. this single vineyard zinfandel is full of classic zin qualities; dark spicy fruit, brambles, blackberries, vanilla and smoke.
52.00 pounds


nebbiolo
adelina, adelaide hills, south australia, 2011
adelina are the side project of some young punks founder – col mcbride, who has begun sourcing interesting, high quality parcels from regions beyond his native barossa valley, in this case from the talc hill vineyard, near adelaide. nebbiolo is the classic northern italian grape, and currently is thriving in the cooler, southern regions of australia. aromas of redcurrant, red cherry, dried rose petals and spices, with a tart raspberry finish make a great wine to rival those of europe.
55.00 pounds



Friday 21 November 2014

PubCo Reform - A Great Victory or Just Plain Stupidity?

They say it's about time the "other side" got to throw a Punch or two - the way that PubCo's have been running their lease agreements just isn't in the Spirit of ensuring the success and sustainability of Britain's pubs. But have we gone about it the right way, or is our knee-jerk reaction just as slapdash as the running of the PubCos we are trying to break free from? I have deliberately refrained from openly speaking about this issue until now, simply because I feel that it would put my professional relationship with our PubCo at The Wingerworth [Punch Taverns] in a difficult position, but there really isn't any avoiding the matter now.

I met with my own Business Development Manager from Punch Taverns on Wednesday lunchtime and one of the first things he asked me was what my thoughts were on the recent vote in the House of Commons. I honestly told him that I hadn't really kept tabs on it because even if the changes were passed, it probably wouldn't benefit us in the short-term. The stark reality is that only a minor progression has been made in the grand scheme - it will realistically take at least another 3 years for any "benefits" of a free of tie, market rent only option on leases to be seen in the real world. That is, if the decision isn't overturned in the meantime before it becomes law. I do of course have an opinion on the matter and my stance may come as a surprise from a tied pub owner. The future of pubs in Britain is on a knife-edge and we must consider the bigger picture, rather than just the short-term saving that this bill will offer for landlords.

CAMRA have been one of driving forces behind this campaign for over a decade now and believe this vote is a huge victory for British beer and British pubs, but it seems to me that they can't see beyond the end of their own pint glass [and how much it will cost them to refill it]. It must be said that when CAMRA began the campaign, the relationship between PubCo and landlord was very different. The system was certainly abused with [among other things] obscene rent increases through rent reviews and liability orders for costly repairs that weren't mentioned before signing the lease. Since then these practices have ceased, to the degree that the only party able to ask for a review of the rent is the tenant. That isn't to say that the system is fair, it's just more fair than it was. The CAMRA campaign simply hasn't adapted with the times and those organising it were so focused and hell-bent on achieving their goals that they hadn't noticed that the world changed around them.

In order to understand the complex relationship between a PubCo and its tennants, we need to understand one key fact - although the original PubCos were owned and operated by a single brewery, the modern-day PubCo is more akin to a property company so the "cost price" for the product that they sell onto us is much higher than the raw ingredients, had they been brewing it themselves. They have no obligation to a single brewery and before the recession they were simply interested in acquiring as many properties [on credit] as they possibly could. When the recession hit, this left them in a position of mind-boggling debt just at a time where Britain's social habits changed and we began to do most of our drinking at home.

So what does the vote mean for the PubCos, who quite frankly are already on their knees? It was only in August that I was reading about the latest "last-ditch" attempt from Punch Taverns to restructure £2.3bn of their debt, leaving 85% of the company in the hands of bondholders. The big plan from the bondholders is of course to sell assets [pubs] to recoup the losses, probably to large [more] successful companies such as Tesco or even someone like The Restaurant Group, who own Frankie & Benny's, Chiquitos and so on. Or worse, housing developers... Either way, our pubs won't be pubs anymore and this week's "victory" will only compound the issue. Today, Punch's shares are worth about 0.023% of their highest value in June 2007, losing a further 10.9% of their value immediately following the vote this week. So who is going to pay for this dramatic decline in the long-run?

The Daily Mail was quick to announce its opinion that the scrapping of the beer tie is a good thing for the customer because landlords will be able to shop around for the best deals, which ultimately means greater profit for the pub and hopefully a saving for the customer too. But I cannot understand how in reality this will result in a saving for the customer. If pubs are apparently struggling because they aren't making enough profit, surely they would ensure their own financial security before passing on the benefits to the end consumer. Similarly microbreweries will be quick to act in increasing their wholesale prices - the fact of the matter is that there are now more breweries in the UK than ever before and less pubs than ever before. Simple math, simple economics. What it might mean is a better standard of beer - if wholesale beer prices go up, pub owners will be more selective in the beers that they buy so only the best breweries will survive. That said, with higher quality come less choice.

Just to briefly look into a price comparison on a few of our own core lines becomes a complex calculation because of the way in which the rent structure is intertwined with the product purchase price. We are currently on Punch's "PA2" agreement, which entitles us to a [I suppose purely hypothetical] £160 per barrel discount on our draught purchases. This was the option that we chose over their "PA3" agreement, which offers a £100 per barrel discount. In addition, if we were to achieve the [unachievable] annual barrelage target set by Punch, we would see the benefit of a further £20 per barrel discount on any purchase above the target. Sounds good so far, BUT... the "PA2" agreement of course comes with a higher rental valuation, which happens to be just shy of £83,000p.a. at The Wingerworth. The reason we chose this option was because it was more of a known entity - although we made countless projections prior to taking on the lease, in reality we had no idea how much beer we would sell, so the safer bet seemed to be to take a lower beer purchase price, with a higher known weekly rent that we could manage. Once you add in our weekly draught purchases [forget any bottled or soft drinks...] of over £1000, it takes Punch's 10-year income on the site to around £1.4m. Considering that the [one assumes circa £600k] property is mortgaged, and that they spent almost that again on the refurbishment, I don't think it is that unreasonable.

However, it must be noted that Punch have coined the phrase "fair maintainable rent" rather than "market rent" when negotiating the rent that they charge for their sites. What they suggest this means, is "the level of rent that a competent operator could maintain whilst still retaining good profits". Here lies the gaping chasm in the PubCo's side of the argument on this reform - if their rent calculations are fair and they really do work on a balanced sliding scale, why are they so upset about this vote? If the calculations really are fair, there aren't very many competent operators out there at all, because over 60% of landlords tied to a PubCo earn less than £10,000 per annum, which equates to about £3.21 per hour, based on an extremely modest 60 hour week.

what pub owners earn

Nevertheless, apart from tied landlords largely living on the poverty line, incorporating inflated beer prices into the deal does look great on paper because it means that someone with not much capitol to invest can operate a site on an [allegedly] lower rent. The PubCo makes its money back if the site is successful through inflated product sales. The key phrase here is if the site is successful. The risk is being taken by the PubCo and it is greatly in their interest to make it a success, wherein comes the plethora of "additional services" offered to tied publicans; marketing teams, trade shows, trade "experts" and so on. I use ironic air quotes deliberately but a handful of people we've worked with have genuinely been hugely helpful - our BDMs through regular meetings and constant email contact, the Catering Development Manager who works closely with and offers guidance to our Head Chef and the Property Manager when the refurbishment was taking place. One of the big worries that our BDM expressed on Wednesday was that something would have to give if this reform was passed and in his opinion one of the first things to go would be these additional services. The Telegraph supports his views, suggesting that PubCos will slash their central expenditure by 25%. My opinion is honestly, don't wait for it to happen. Do it now. Most of the services are a waste of time to a competent operator and most of the people carrying out those services are in fact grossly incompetent...

So how much does the beer cost us from Punch? And what would it cost us if we were free of tie?

Well real ale is an easy comparison, because we sell our own exclusive ale LokeAle 1643 on a free-of-tie basis from North Star Brewery and we also sell tied ales from Punch Taverns:


Wholesale Price
Per Pint
Punch Price
Per Pint
Sale Price
Our GP%
LokeAle 1643
£61.00 +VAT
£1.02
-
-
£2.80
63.52%
Farmer’s Blonde


£103.46 +VAT
£1.72
£3.30
48.00%

From the figures above, one would assume that Punch make approximately £40 (net) per cask on the higher £160 per barrel discount just for being the "middle-man". But of course not, because they sting the brewer aswell. Rather than the brewer setting a price for his/her product, Punch tell them what they will pay. This value is often 20-25% under market wholesale rate, leaving the poor brewer with only £20 cash margin on each cask that they produce and Punch with a whopping £50-55 (>50%), just for delivering the beer to me, which the local brewer would happily have done for £60-65 instead of the £103 that I pay to Punch.

It is evident that we do make a healthier margin on the free-of tie products, which we have to do in order to recoup some of the deficit left by tied products, but we do also pass on a substantial saving to the customer. Because of this, we sell almost three times as much LokeAle as any other ale - which Punch are (of course...) not happy about!

Let's also briefly consider flip-side of the interaction between Pubco and microbrewery - the fact that the 'tie' is actually keeping the wholesale price of beer under control. Without the weight of these huge companies determining what they are prepared to pay, brewers could effectively charge what they wanted. Particularly with limited production capacity and supply/demand coming into play, we could easily find ourselves in a situation where the cost to the pub actually goes up, not down. Take two local success-stories for example - Castle Rock and Blue Monkey, whose 'free of tie' ale prices are £20+ per cask (25%) more expensive than their local competitors. Why? Because they can.

Contrary to popular belief, pub beer prices aren't actually expensive in comparison to the "good old days". In 1970, the average salary was £1,664 and the average cost of a pint 20p (0.012% of the annual salary). Today, the average salary is £26,500 and the cost of a pint of ale £3.10 (again, 0.012% of annual salary!). So why do campaigners believe that cheaper beer is the solution?

Real ale is not the only affected product - let's take a look at San Miguel, which I sold at The Embankment in Nottingham through Marston's on a free of tie basis:


Marstons Price
Per Pint
Punch Price
Per Pint
Sale Price
Our GP%
San Miguel FOT
£96.00 +VAT
£1.31
-
-
£3.50
62.67%
San Miguel Tied


£146.61 +VAT
£2.00
£4.20
52.29%

It's the exact same stuff remember! If we were to sell the San Miguel at the same price that I could afford to at The Embankment, the margins would be catastrophic. Don't even get me started on Peroni...

So yes, pubs tied to PubCos have to pay more for their beer and make a lower margin. In turn they have to charge the customer more, which undoubtedly impacts levels of sales, particularly when competing with large chains such as Wetherspoons and indeed supermarkets. Yes, many tied landlords are struggling to survive because they can't make their margins work or their sales are impacted by the high prices that they have to charge. But what of the alternative?

Make no mistake, I do believe that the leases that "us landlords" have agreed to are fundamentally unfair. But we have agreed to them. For one, there is absolutely no way that we would have been able to afford the in-excess-of £550k refurbishment that Punch stumped up for us at The Wingerworth in August last year. We live in a privileged time, where as a customer we expect a perfect pint, in lovely surroundings at minimal cost. Can anyone remember drinking anything other than local beers before PubCos came along? Can anyone remember the state of their local pub before a PubCo took it over and refurbished?

Enterprise Inns alone spends £70m per year on renovating and maintaining its pubs - operators would never be able to afford anywhere near this level of expenditure. The reality is that if PubCos such as Punch didn't charge us more, The Wingerworth would still be a dingy pub struggling to turn over what we pay out to Punch in a week. In fact, PubCos themselves would have folded long ago because of their lack of ability to service their debts and the majority of pubs would most likely no longer still be pubs.



Yes, PubCos have displayed ineptitude at every level, comparable only to the banks that keep lending them money to buy and refurbish. Yes, PubCos have brought pubs, one of the finest elements of British heritage, to its knees but let's not be hasty - let's make sure that we're making the correct decisions to sustain pubs for the future. After all, PubCos are not the only reason for the decline of our pubs. A recent survey by the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills suggested that only 42% of tenanted pub owners felt that their struggles were a result of mistreatment by PubCos, in comparison to 61% stating supermarket prices, 60% taxation, 32% the recession and 16% the smoking ban as one of the three biggest challenges they were facing.

Spare a thought - what will happen to your local when [not if...] the major PubCos go bust following this reform and the administrators take over? Without a recession, would we have any qualms about the prices that PubCos are charging? And finally, are supermarket prices not the real threat to our pubs?

Wednesday 19 November 2014

One Hell of a Beer!






So last night I found myself making a stew with "leftovers" in the fridge and as everyone knows, a good stew needs a good beer in it. Blundering through the garage I stumbled across a few boxes (!!! hurrah!..) of ale from my father-in-law's North Star Brewery. The ale in question was a 6.66% beast called Devil's Deadly Weapon brewed exclusively for his two brothers' mega metal band Hell. Had to be worth a punt, right?...

Devil's Deadly Weapon, North Star Brewery, 6.66%:
The instant thought I had when pouring was porter - a dark, dark ruby colour, with an aroma that was undoubtedly coffee, rich dark chocolate and lashings of smoke [straight from the fires of Hell...]. One of the reasons that I really love porter is that it's history is just as mysterious and smoky as it's character. The other thing I love are the parallels in the process of its production with wine. In February last year I was invited to judge the Porter category in the CAMRA National Winter Ale Festival in Derby - a real treat - and since then my love for porter and dark ale has just grown and grown.


One popular belief of the origin of porter is that it was created by/for the transportation workers [porters] in Central London in the 1700s, who blended an old (stale) ale with a new (brown) ale and a pale ale, to result in a strong, flavoursome beer typically with an ABV of 7% or higher. The "stale ale" element may be of surprise, but this was supposed to give an acidity to the beer, balancing the sweetness of the roasted malt. Just like a great red wine, this great red beer was also traditionally aged in huge wooden maturation vats [some of which were reported to hold half a million gallons!] for several months to develop the characteristic roasted smoky flavours. As popularity and demand for porter grew, brewers tried to find new ways to bypass the long production process, such as adding molasses and burnt sugar to artificially achieve the deep colour [Chaptalization in wine anyone?...]. It is also rumoured that some brewers added intoxicants such as opium to addict consumers to their beer - a Hell-ish trick you might suggest...

The good news is that these practices no longer exist in the modern production of porter, but the even better news is that nevertheless, the beer still retains the traditional characteristics. Generally they are brewed with a combination of pale, black, crystal, chocolate and dark brown malt and although Richard labels this beer as a "strong dark ale", I wouldn't be surprised if the Devil's Deadly Weapon was brewed with a combination of at least a few of these. Equally, the brewer suggested initial port wine flavours, but I disagree strongly - it's bigger and more sinister than that, and not as sweet. The main flavour profile for me is treacle, liquorice, Marmite, bitter dark chocolate, burnt coffee and of course, that smoky finish. If any fruit fights its way through that onslaught, it's more at the fig, date and plum end of the spectrum. I loved it - a whole bottle went into the stew and I pretended to fancy baking some infused soda bread, just so I could open and polish off a second bottle.I have to mention that according to the bottle, the beer was past its "best before". Again, I stubbornly disagree. Porter (and other strong ales) mature just like wine and are best with a bit of age. Take Fuller's Vintage Ale - I think that the 2007/2006/2005 vintages are just peaking now - this beer is only just beginning to get to its best! Give it a chance! Here's the recipe for the soda bread - it is ever so easy, give it a go...

"Devil's Deadly" Soda Bread:
170g wholemeal self-raising flour
170g plain flour
1/2 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon treacle
1/4 pint buttermilk (or double cream)
1/4 pint Devil's Deadly Weapon

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees C. Mix all of the dry ingredients in a large bowl and make a "well" in the centre. Slowly trickle in the buttermilk and ale, while mixing into the flour with a fork. Once the dough has come together, add the treacle and knead gently by hand for a few minutes. The dough should be firm (but not hard) and slightly tacky (but not sticky or wet). If it's too hard, add some more beer, if it's too wet add more flour.

Roll the dough into a fat sausage shape and slash the top with a sharp knife. I use a silicone loaf tin to bake, but a well greased and lined metal tin is just fine. Bake for half an hour, drizzling more treacle on top 5 minutes before it's done. Leave to cool on a wire rack and it's done.

Time to Say Goodbye...

I'm very sad to say that it's almost time to say goodbye to two of our favourite wines at The Wingerworth - the New Zealand Riesling from Toi Toi and the Chateau Bouissel from Fronton in France. Not only are these wines exceptional value and great examples of their style, they are just so, so drinkable. Although they will be sorely missed, the good news is that we've got some brilliant replacements already lined up for when the last few bottles sell out - another Riesling, this time from Washington State and a really great punchy red from Juan Gil in Jumilla, Spain. In homage to the good times we've had with our old retiring friends on the wine list I'm reviewing these "old boys" one last time, with a comparison against the young guns that will be replacing them.

Toi Toi Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2011:
This is hands down my favourite wine on the Wingerworth wine list, it's just fantastically moreish. Based in the Omaka Valley just outside Marlborough, the area has it's own microclimate with cool breezes and full sun. The gravely soil keeps the vines well drained, as well as retaining the warmth of the sun, which adds to the slight sweetness of the wine. The "green" nose of predominantly lime zest is accompanied by the trademark Riesling petrol punch. A slightly sweet, ripe lime palate balances the acidity, along with crisp green apple and just a hint of mineral. It's just a really nicely balanced, interesting wine.
Vivino Score: 4.5 Stars


To replace such a great wine we had to find something special and although its flavour characteristics are very different, we opted for:

Chateau Ste Michelle Riesling, Washington State, USA, 2010:
This wine originates in Columbia Valley, just South-East of Seattle. The vineyards lie in the shadow of the Cascade Mountains, with warm, sunny days in the area, giving way to cool evening temperatures and create ideal conditions for intense aroma and flavour development. Similarly to the Toi Toi, this Riesling is off-dry, but on the contrary its aroma and palate are dominated by ripe stone fruit and mandarin rather than green citrus. The initial intense sweet mandarin with a hint of peach flavour, gives way to a long, sweet lime finish, again with the petrol and mineral qualities often associated with the grape. As big Riesling fans, we wanted to find something really fantastic to fill the slot on our list and this Chateau Ste Michelle is just great!
Vivino Score: 4.0 Stars

Chateau Bouissel "Classic, Fronton", France, 2010:
Another of the old favourites on the Wingerworth wine list, we actually had this one by the glass too. Affectionaltely nicknamed "Chat Bou" by the staff, I liked this wine because of the interesting blend of grapes, resulting in an equally interesting layered flavour profile to the wine. Hailing from the Languedoc-Roussillon region in deep Southern France, this wine benefits from the temperate Mediterranean climate. Our wine merchant hand-picked this wine while travelling in France and it's clear to see why he fell in love with it. A blend of predominantly Negrette, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, this wine is big, bold and fruity. However, the thing that grabs me most is the floral aroma of rose petals and Parma violets. On the palate you get big, red cherry, followed by ripe plum, before the Malbec steals in with a spicy finish. I found that this wine really benefits from some air and was absolutely singing after double-decanting!
Vivino Score: 4.0 Stars

Sadly the supply of this fascinating wine has dried up, but we've found something equally interesting and equally delicious to take its place:

Juan Gil "4 Meses" Monastrell, Jumilla, Spain, 2011:
Designed to be drunk young, this Monastrell (Mourvèdre) is exploding with fruit. If the Fronton is big, this is gargantuan... The nose caught me by surprise - I could only describe it as smoky, spiced German salami, followed by dark jammy fruit. The flavour was rich, heavy and dense black cherry and blackberry, giving way to a long, tannic, herby, smoky and oaky finish. It definitely doesn't have same the depth or layering of interesting flavour as the Fronton, but it certainly makes up with its punchiness. 
Vivino Score: 4.0 Stars




Both of these exciting new additions come alongside a host of others in our latest "shake-up" of the wine list. Other wines that we are excited to launch include a Shiraz-Mataro blend from Aussie outfit Some Young Punks (and their sister vineyard Adelina's Nebbiolo, which I reviewed in my "Perkins Wine Series" blog), a Lebansese red from Gaston Hochar, a lovely Gruner Veltliner from Sepp Moser in Austria and a delicious selection of award-winning Beaujolais. We like to keep the list fluid with continual improvements and additions to add interest. But also after a year of trading we hope that the list is starting to reflect our own character and taste, with wines that we have a real passion to share with you. Enjoy!

Wednesday 5 November 2014

You won't Bellini it 'til you see it...


In a world dominated by giant chain supermarkets, it's always a pleasure to find an independent retailer thriving - particularly when it's in a place that you least expect it. Just over ten years ago I was introduced to just one such place by my wife - a place that the locals in Ilkeston seem to hold close to their hearts. I love that, and I can see exactly why. From the outside, Bellini's on Heanor Road looks just like any petrol station but what you find inside is nothing short of a treasure trove. Aside from the expected petrol station fayre, you will find a small cafe serving proper Illy coffee and homemade cakes, a [what must be] 15-20 metre long deli offering homemade pasties, pies, salads, a selection of quality local meat and cheese and quite honestly the best breakfast cobs in the world for £2.89. They are a weekend staple in our house and it's a real joy to have this place within a few minutes of where we live.

On top of that comes the real treat - a treat for all beer buffs and wine geeks alike. Bellini's is home to over 600 beers and wines. While they do stock some of the staple brands that you would expect, there are some incredible discoveries to be made, which their in-house experts have obviously worked hard to accumulate. Hard-to-find craft ale from the US, real ale from most of the top local microbreweries and some great treats from Belgium and the rest of the continent. For the wine lovers I just have to fire some names at you - Musar, Opus One, Ridge, Au Bon Climat, Some Young Punks, the list goes on. [No offense, but] in a petrol station... In Ilkeston... Love it.


On top of that they have their very own free-to-join Wine Club, hosting Wine Tasting evenings in the cafe. The next of these tastings is featuring South African Waterkloof Estate Vineyard on Thursday 13th November, costing just £15 (and offering up to 10% off wine purchases on the night!) - see their Facebook page for further details.

Time for some reviews of my recent purchases:

Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec, Argentina, 2011:
Bodega Trivento nestles in the hot, arid Mendoza Valley and is one of the most recognised names from the region. Its name, Trivento, relates to the three winds that provide the climate for the characteristic traits of the wine; the year-round Zonda winds bring hot, dry air from the Andes and improve the budding of the vines, the Sudestada fresh summer breezes bring much needed clouds and rain to break from the scorching sun and the cold Polar winds at the end of the season signal the start of the pruning season. What this leaves us with is a big, bold, ripe blackberry fruit flavour, followed by balanced acidity coming through as sour red cherry. Ageing in French and American oak brings a great finish of spice and earthy leather, as well as the expected characteristic black pepper and a hit of velvety tannins. I love Malbec and you'd be pushed to find a better example for around £12. Worthy winner of a 2012 Silver Medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards.
Vivino Score: 4.5 stars


Yalumba Viognier, South Australia, 2012:
We recently tasted Yalumba's 2008 Museum Reserve Muscat at The Wingerworth, so I was excited to see what they would do with one of my favourite white grapes, Viognier. As Australia's oldest family-owned vineyard, you imagine that they have developed the right formula over their 165 year history. Based in the Barossa Valley, Yalumba are at the forefront of innovation in the wine industry, particularly in environmental performance and organic viticulture. However, this only impresses me if it results in great wine! What did impress was the thought that had gone into the label - a beautifully drawn rootstock to catch the eye on expensive-feeling textured paper and a smart tear-off tab to keep safe and remember the wine for next time. I must admit that the wine sadly did not quite live up to the high expectation set by the packaging. The nose was heavily floral [honeysuckle perhaps], with a citrus undertone. A rich buttery character to the palate added a touch of opulence alongside stone fruit and although the label claimed to offer a taste of lychee, I didn't really get any. The finish was smoky, but sadly sharp and acidic - a really unsubtle end to what promised to be quite a sophisticated wine.
Vivino Score: 3.5 stars


Au Bon Climat "Wild Boy" Chardonnay, California, 2011:
It has been mooted on occasion that I am a fan of California and that I might be partial to a drop of Chardonnay. Imagine my excitement when this badboy [or should I say Wild Boy] appeared on the shelf! For anyone who doesn't know Au Bon Climat, they are a serious wine-maker on the Californian West Coast, specialising in Burgundian-style wines. Normally styled for the expected "serious" market, I have to say that I was both surprised and skeptical about the [mental] label. For anyone who does know Au Bon Climat well, the "Wild Boy" on the label is clearly Jim Clendensen, the mad scientist behind the brand. At around £19, this was about £1 more than I could pick up the wine online but it was an impulse-buy [of which I seem to have had several since...]. The nose was ripe apricot followed by something more tropical - melon perhaps. True to Chardonnay-form, it was rich and buttery on the palate from the outset, with an enjoyable apricot and tangerine flavour. The oak wasn't too heavy and the long citrus finish cut right through the richness.Very delicious and very moreish.
Vivino Score: 4.5 stars


The slogan on Bellini's website sums my sentiments on the place up very well - "Forty years, three generations... one very special local store!". If you want to try something different, something exciting, something carefully chosen, head over there and take a look for yourself.